TMFL: Museums Abound

Beyond hot springs and hiking, what took up most of our time on the island ended up being museum absorbing. The first one we went to was the Icelandic phallilogical museum. This museum was the work of one man, living way up in Husavik. Apparently, the powers that be decided to move the museum from its home in the north to a still somewhat off the beaten path location in Reykjavik. The original location looks amazing, but the weiners' new home in the big city was pretty great too. Can you spot the one below?

Doubled!

Elf Wang

The attention to detail was astounding. We highly recommend the museum. It seemed like it would be kitschy (in the worst possible way) and we were surprised when the collection was more akin to the obsessive environments we have visited in the past.

Anyhow, Ted had some serious cock talk to get to...

We visited Mr. Jonsson's (no pun intended) house/workshop/museum. Einar Jonsson functioned in some sort of Blake-ian universe, all on his own...

... pretty much on his own mountain top (as you can see from the picture below. His house is now right in the middle of bustling downtown Reykjavik) sculpting mythic figures and revealed/channeled spiritual truths.

We loved it all so much.

On the way out of Reykjavik, we decided to pay homage to Gljufrasteinn, the home and workplace of Halldor Laxness.

Laxness is amazing and underappreciated, especially in America (perhaps due to his communist sympathising). He lead a very storied life and his house told that story well. Unfortunately, photography was not allowed inside (and surprisingly, Ted listened to the repeat requests to not take photos while inside).

The surrounding area was breath taking.

Thanks to the suggestion of our friend Chris, we visited the library of water in Stykkishólmur. The installation is housed within the town's old library, overlooking the docks.

American artist, Roni Horn collected, melted, and filtered water from every glacier in Iceland.

R. Horn catalogued the water in pillers from floor to ceiling throughout the library.

In speaking with the librarian, we learned that at the opening of the museum, the water of each glacier was distinguishable by the colors and visibility of the elements they contained. She also told us that at least one of the glaciers they used for the project has since melted away completely.

Several years later, the sediment within the water has long since settled, and they all appear crystal clear.

We spent hours watching shapes distort and magnify within the lens of the glacier pillars

and enjoying the view.

We didn't actually make it to the exhibits within the Perlan, however we hiked up to the building and admiring it's structure and view

How does one describe The Sea Monster Museum? We went there on a whim, with time to kill one morning in Bildudalur. The museum appears kitschy and simple from the outside, but it houses a sophisticated hommage to centuries of Icelandic sea monster lore. We were thoroughly impressed by the exhibits. It reminded us a lot of of the Museum of Jurassic Technology, our favorite museum in Los Angeles, and although it may be heresy to admit it, we thought the execution of the Sea Monster Museum transcends even that of the MJT.

Unfortunately, photography within was strictly forbidden. So, you'll just have to take our word for it...or better yet, go there and see for yourselves!

While speaking to the museum curator, Ted discovered that the home and work of Samuel Jonsson was just a forty five minute drive down a dirt road away.

We had first seen this art environment in Sigur Ròs' film, Heima where they play in the midst of the sculptures.

In the madness of preparing for this trip while preparing for our wedding, moving, and finishing up school, we forgot to find out exactly how to get to this place.

So we were grateful and excited that the woman at the Sea Monster Museum knew about it

and she appeared to be equally excited about our interest in visiting it.

Using his pension fund, Samuel began constructing these environs at the age of 65.

He built statues to emulates animals and figures from Icelandic history, such as "Leif the Lucky" (pictured below) discoverer of America.

He also created an alter piece for the local church,

but when they rejected it, he built a church of his own to house it in, hauling steel from a neighboring fjord over a mountain to then use in his sculptures. The lion sculpture below is based on a picture that Samuel saw of a similar one in Spain.

Mr. Jonsson's environment was by far the most remote we have ever been to.
It was totally worth it.

In Hólmavik, we visited the Museum of Icelandic Sorcery and Witchcraft

Which is exactly what you'd expect it to be...full of runes

legends

and recreations (the wormy fellows below are created by some sort of runic recitation and they feed on thigh nipples...

...which is exactly what it sounds like).

Bravo!

The outskirts of Akureyri are rich with culture. While our time in the city was nice, our excursions to its surroundings were most memorable.

We spent hours at the Folk and Outsider Museum

We enjoyed basking in it's vaaast bounty

Skate Sail!

Horn Nail!

and we marveled at its library

After exhausting ourselves with work and books, we recharged over complimentary glasses of Tang while perusing catalogues of past exhibits.

Refreshed and renewed, we were thirsty for more and began bombarding the museum owner, Níels Hafstein, with questions. One thing led to another, and he invited us to explore the attic where old pieces were crammed into large plastic bins and bookshelves

Each time Níels showed us something, he seemed to be pleased by our wide-eyed excitement. We continued to press on with questions and appreciation, and he continued to guide us deeper into the recesses, hidden nooks, and storage spaces of the museum.

Until, after a tour of the artist-in-residence living quarters, he stated that we have seen everything that there is to see

When we asked Níels if he recommended any nearby museums, he said that Smámunasafn was one of his local favorites. Níels described it as a crazy place that we would either really like, or we would hate and leave immediately.

We loved it, and spent several hours there.

Smámunasafn is an old schoolhouse dedicated to the display of Sverrir Hermannsson's lifetime of obsessive collection.

Unlike most hoarders, Sverrir's massive collection was meticulous and organized

It was overwhelming and educational, and I only wish we could go back to visit it again and again.

Over in the east fjords, we visited the Fish Factory.

The original fish factory had been the life source of this tiny town of two hundred inhabitants, until it closed a few years ago. After a year spent convincing local officials that she is not crazy, Rosa and her husband purchased the fish factory and have been transforming it into a creative powerhouse ever since.
Ideas were sprouting up everywhere we looked...

Rosa graciously showed us about the factory

And pointed out where things will go.

We can't wait to return and see the finished product. The fish factory was incredibly inspiring and

we left feeling encouraged and challenged by Rosa's passion for sustainability through creativity.

And finally, in artsy fartsy Seydisfjordur, we visited Geirahús, the former home of Jon Asgeir Emilsson. This house is overseen by Skaftfell, mentioned elsewhere on th' blog.